A jacket in Phulkari, a stole with Pattachitra print, a pair of earrings made in the form of Kondappali toys, a shrug in Madhubani print, Warli paintings on lampshades — Indian handicrafts have turned funky with time. In an attempt to preserve them, All India Handicrafts Week is celebrated from December 8-14 every year to create the awareness about, and gain support for, our handicrafts.
We look at some attempts being made to revive our handicrafts...
A STITCH IN TIME
A tool adopted by women in the Bolpur (Santiniketan) region of West Bengal to sustain themselves, Kantha stitch has come a really long way today. One finds this traditional craft of West Bengal on the runways at the biggest fashion shows while high-end furnishing brands too are offering décor items in Kantha stitch. Says Bijoy Bhadhuri, a Kolkata-based artisan who hails from Santiniketan, “The geometric patterns and multicoloured threads in Kantha look attractive on sarees and dupattas. That’s why it has been able to catch the attention of fashion designers. Earlier, the art was only limited to Bengal but with more and more designers taking interest in it, it is now reaching new heights and giving artisans a new lease of life.”
Bhadhuri, who is carrying on the family tradition of Kantha, has helped various designers from around the country to work with it and give it their own look and feel to attract urban customers.
Kolkata-based designer Anjali Gupta, who owns Anikesh Designs and works closely with artisans, believes that in this age of mass-produced items, something like a handmade item has a uniqueness to it and a story to tell too. These painstakingly crafted pieces are stunning, and can certainly be part of mainstream fashion, she feels. “While working with these artisans, you have to ensure that they are supported with design ideas and execution and the products are marketed appropriately in the country and overseas too. In fact, Kantha can command a premium price if positioned in the right manner,” points out Gupta who has given unique twists to Kantha by using it in pillow covers, blinds, torans, table runners, funky bags, jackets, pallazos and so on. Due to such makeovers, Kantha has got a mass appeal.
A TOUCH OF KUTCH
Kutch is a treasuretrove of artworks — from Rabari clay art to different kinds of embroideries — this region of Gujarat has a lot to offer. The clay relief done on the walls of huts in Gujarat has now become a décor idea in urban homes; Kutchi embroideries too have turned stylish. Says Santosh Dave who runs a small organisation in Bhirandiari in Bhuj, “Our embroideries are no longer limited to just cholis and ghagras. From clutch bags and handbags to mobile holders, they can be found everywhere. These embroideries look very cool when it comes to accessories. The popularity of jackets with Kutchi embroidery has created a demand for them in other cities too. The organisation has seen a huge rise in demand for the embroideries, albeit with a modern twist. We have also worked with some of the leading designers of our country. This will help us create a better market for our products and keep the art alive.”
TEXTILE TALES
Designer Latha Puttanna, who has completed 25 years in the industry, says that craftsmanship is the essence of good fashion but unfortunately it’s dying in India. “Craftsmanship is the essence of good fashion. It’s what sets a creation apart. But unfortunately in India, it’s dying. Most of our craftsmanship comes from remote regions of the country, that do not have access to large markets and fair prices. But the work they do is nothing short of brilliant or extraordinary. And I want to do all I can to revive it,” says Puttanna.
The Bengaluru-based designer feels that brilliance of textile has always been there but a lot of craft is near extinction. “The range of textiles, the intricacy in handlooms, the delicate nuances of workmanship — these are things that have come down generations! It’s not something new. But what has happened is that it has not received the acknowledgment and appreciation that has been due to it,” says she. However, in the recent past, the designer has observed that the marketing and the growth of social media have helped in bringing these to light. “And of course, a whole host of designers are exploring newer avenues by blending classic fashion with modern needs. So, in terms of exploiting our potential — yes, we have made some headway. But sadly, a lot of these crafts are near extinction. And if we don’t hurry, it may be too late,” cautions Puttanna.
(With Inputs from IANS)
