The forgotten art wonderland

The forgotten art wonderland

Walking around the quaint little town of Mandawa, in the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan, is like walking in an open art gallery. Every other lane you explore takes you back in time to the dazzling legacy of an era bygone — old-world mansions adorned with fascinating art, stunningly unique frescos covering the inside-out of houses, streets which evoke a sense of nostalgia for the opulence of its once residents. A 3-hour drive from Jaipur and a 6-hour drive from Delhi, Mandawa makes for a definite stop in your travel across the princely state. 

BUILT TO IMPRESS
The 18th century settlement, which was once a trading outpost, has over 80 mansions or havelis, which were built by the Marwari merchant community that it was home to. The merchants who made their money from the silk route ensured their abodes stood out, commissioning fresco artists to embellish interiors and facades — the more money, the grander the adornment. The advent of the British rule forced the Marwaris to the coast cities, primarily Kolkata and Mumbai. Seeking to keep impressing who were left behind they spent with pride on their old homes, often competing to outdo the neighbours. The havelis eventually went into a steep decline, some left to caretakers to manage their forgotten glory.

A WALKING ART MUSEUM
The entire town of Mandawa and its lanes bear testament to its past grandiose — some havelis almost in ruins, some with its breathtaking artwork still intact, but fascinating nevertheless. The best way to explore is by walking around and exploring these havelis, some with a marginal entry fee charged by the caretakers. Some of the havelis and buildings have been restored and turned into hotels. Be sure to visit the Mandawa Castle, built by Thakur Nawal Singh in 1755 and home to some antique armour, portraits of family and gorgeous frescos in natural colours. 

Other prominent havelis include Jhunjhunwala Haveli which has striking gold leaf painted room on the right as you enter the main door. The Ramnath Podar Haveli houses an interesting museum showcasing traditional Rajasthani clothing, paintings, and other mementos. The Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli has been turned into a beautiful hotel. The exquisite frescos of the Goenka Double Haveli have been beautifully restored with a part of the family living there. Murmuriya Haveli has unique art themes, a mix of old and the new as you might spot Krishna shepherding cows in a typical English countryside. In some cases, you might spot gods in vintage cars, royal men listening to gramophones and steam engines running across the facades. Don’t be surprised if you see distorted faces or women with moustaches on the walls — these were possibly the result of property disputes taken too far. 

THIS TOWN HAS A LOT TO OFFER
An interesting fact about Mandawa is the number of Bollywood movies being shot here in the last few years — from Bajrangi Bhaijaan and PK to Mirziya and Shuddh Desi Romance — so you might just run into your favourite stars. 

With niche European travellers who have been flocking Mandawa over the years to appreciate the art, the town also has a decent number of hotels (most of these havelis), restaurants etc and yet manages to maintain its old, rustic charm. 

Have a traditional meal at Monika Rooftop Restaurant and also enjoy a gorgeous view of the town. Stop at the Parashar tea stall nearby for a divine cup of Masala Chai as you take a break from your explorations. For your stay, choose one of the havelis turned into hotels; it will surely be a lifetime experience. 

Shopping addicts can buy handmade mojris in soft leather, and pedhas. You will also be able to pick up interesting vintage posters and artefacts in a small shop near the Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli.

Mandawa offers a distinct experience from the lavish extravagance of the forts and palaces in popular cities like Jaipur, Jaisalmer or Jodhpur. It floors you with its ornate extravaganza, atmosphere and rustic charm making this hidden gem one of the most idyllic getaways in Rajasthan. 

(The writer is a traveller, photographer and storyteller who shares his experiences @movingcompass)

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