"Mujhe pata tha aap Mumbai se hai (I knew you are from Mumbai).” My Punjab journey began with this line from the driver plying me from Amritsar airport to Ferozepur, a border town in Punjab, where I was taking a solo trip. Having woken up at 2 am for a 5 am flight, and survived the cramped flight space for a good five hours, the cheerful and polite cab driver was a perfect welcome to the land of five rivers — Punjab. “You Mumbai girls are always so bold and independent; making solo trips, carrying your own luggage and being so frank and approachable,” he reasoned his guess.
Ahh.. what a welcome!
The lush green wheat fields stretching up to the horizon marked my 100-km long journey to Ferozepur, called “an extremely small town” by my friend posted there (fauji friends make for great hosts). The traveller in me was more than excited about visiting this so-called small town and exploring it by myself while my friend was busy. As we zoomed past the town of Amritsar, the road became a sight to behold, with those green fields and the countryside view. The talkative driver just made it better. From his academics to his future plans, and the culture of Punjab, he filled me in on every detail. I enjoyed the 23-year-old’s innocent blabbering all the way up to Ferozepur, which, in all honesty, gave me quite a jolt, a rather rude one. My friend was quite right, I must say.
Of people...
Having secured my accommodation and rested for the day, the next day was supposed to be my adventure day. From dressing in a ‘modest’ way — which by the way includes a full-sleeved long kurta — to covering my head with a scarf, thanks to the immense heat, I was all geared up to merge into the culture. But not so easy for a solo female traveller! The moment I stepped out of my hotel, every possible person on the street gave me the stares. While I tried to ignore them initially, it got quite uncomfortable soon enough. I got myself a share auto, and the three elderly ladies in it let out a giggle. I smiled at them and was given a loving smile back too. They helped me with the directions to a coffee house, which seemed like home to me in the alien town.
Having gotten the much-needed help about cab services and places to visit from the coffee shop owner, I felt more equipped. Gurudwara Shri Jaamani Sahib, Bazidpur was the first place the cab driver took me to. Situated in Bazidpur village of Ferozepur district on the Ferozepur-Ludhiana road, it is known for the visit of Shri Guru Gobind Singh after the battle of Mukatsar Sahib. The huge white structure offered me peace. Another small gurudwara — the Saragarhi Memorial Gurudwara — located close to the army cantonment and visited often by the army men, was my next stop. A well-maintained garden adorned the holy place, making it even more beautiful.
I guess the gods were quite happy with me — what with the yummy parathas that I had for lunch immediately after. Located on the famous Malwal road in the town, this small joint called ‘Amritsari Kulcha’ surprised me with its filling parathas served with some pickle and curd that was much-needed, given the heat. Now was time for the most awaited part of the day — a visit to the Hussainiwala border.
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..and the places
Hussainiwala, a village in Ferozepur district, is located on the banks of river Sutlej and hosts a border post, shared with neighbouring Pakistan. The crossing is now closed for travellers, but a retreat ceremony takes place here every evening, and people are allowed to witness it. The ceremony is small-scale as compared to the famous one at Wagah border, and sees way fewer people in attendance but the seating arrangement in India and Pakistan is in close proximity here, giving it a nice intimate and friendly feel.
Also located here is the National Martyrs Memorial — the cremation site of freedom fighters Bhagat Singh, Sukhdev and Rajguru, that saw a huge upheaval in the country way back in 1931. An annual fair takes place here every year on March 23 in the memory of the young martyrs. As if a reminder of the bitter colonial past and the resultant bitterness between the two neighbours, this also happens to be the location of the last railway station in India before the train (which is no more operational) entered Pakistan. The railway tracks now lie broken and the station dilapidated.
That marked a rather grim end to my stay in Ferozepur. The next morning I decided to visit the famed Golden Temple in Amritsar, 11 years after my first visit here. Even after a decade, it gave me (a non-religious person) the same peace of mind, albeit it was much more needed this time around!
I took the flight back with a bag full of memories, knowing that I can visit this state any number of times, for its sheer beauty, warmth, and the people.
